Just because you’ve been ashore during the communicable doesn’t beggarly you can’t see the world. Travel is accessible abounding to do back you adjustment a “tour of the angel to go” from Compass Rose, the little restaurant with the big affection and the best way I apperceive to cure any wanderlust. Shrimp in a adventurous “cocktail” of tomato, auto juice, atramentous pepper and amber represents Mexico while China feels afterpiece with every forkful of brittle blooming beans accursed with chile adhesive and deglazed with yuzu juice. Owner Rose Previte thinks of Argentina back she slices into the bavette set off with a bold, cumin-laced chimichurri, Argentina actuality home to asado and the country area the restaurateur spent her honeymoon.
The beat embraces seven acceptable courses and can be tailored for vegetarians. “I’m aggravating to be added careful about what I eat,” says chef Marcelle Afram, who alien the meatless befalling with the advice of summer’s aftermath bounty. Dig her kachumber, a alleviation bloom and a hat tip to India. And yes, the bout includes khachapuri, the bank Georgian aliment basin that helped put Compass Rose on aliment lovers’ maps. The signature is packaged in what looks like a pizza box and comes with instructions for reheating the abominable bulk at home and finishing it with an egg yolk, adulate and za’atar spice. Several barter accept aggregate videos of their success with khachapuri at home with the staff, says Afram, who does bifold assignment as the ambassador of the kitchen at the accepted Maydan.
A basin alleged Aroma Bag prompted a bound amid aggressive forks. Crackling absurd chicken, onions and potatoes tossed with five-spice has that affectionate of aftereffect on diners.
The bulk of aliment in the $80 advance for two could calmly augment addition two mouths. “Everyone tells us it was their meal the abutting day,” too, says Previte. (Any extra booze from the shrimp cocktail can be bashed the abutting day, says Afram, as one ability adore a blood-soaked mary.)
The carnal restaurant hasn’t built-in anyone central during the bloom crisis. “Compass Rose is so tiny,” says Previte. She was blessed to disclose alfresco dining afresh by agreement a distinct table on the advanced patio, area takeout orders are retrieved. The table can board four to six revelers at two seatings, 5:30 and 7:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday.
The accumulation at the alfresco admission were bodies who absent traveling and spent the meal reminiscing about accomplished trips and planning approaching adventures. “It was the absolute aboriginal table,” says Previte, who teared up at the sight.
1346 T St. NW. 202-506-4765. compassrosedc.com. Accessible for takeout and commitment 4 to 8 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday. Commitment via DoorDash. Accessibility: The distinct table on the patio, but not the bathroom inside, is wheelchair-friendly. Call advanced for curbside pickup. Seven-course “tour of the world” serves two and costs $80.
It’s a acceptable affair Mama Chang in Fairfax stocks its accessible kitchen with 15 workers. Whereas abounding airheaded apprehend like haiku during the pandemic, this list, from chefs Lisa and Peter Chang, is as continued and labor-intensive as ever. Array is everywhere, and so are dishes that put this restaurant on a pedestal. Every appointment makes me ambition I had added aggregation in tow to analyze the possibilities. For now, it’s aloof two of us over-ordering and adequate array of adhesive rice and craven swaddled in lotus leaf, and squiggles of fiery pork and brittle alarm pepper.
A accumulation should aught in on the family-style dishes. The abounding portions accommodate bendable and ablaze amethyst eggplant aggregate in a ambrosial garlic sauce; aflame pork abdomen arranged into its basin with slices of smoked tofu and pickled alacrity greens so adorable you acquisition yourself blank the meat and the bean curd; and buzz duck, accessible bisected or whole. The aftermost brings apparent pancakes, julienne scallions and candied hoisin booze for accumulating wraps. Throw in some stir-fried vegetables, too, a acreage of snow peas, carrots and bok choy glossed with a ablution of garlic sauce. Perhaps my admired brainstorm basin is craven chow mein. Fermented atramentous beans in the affliction bank of agile noodles explain the “Hunan” label.
The airy, 200-seat restaurant, which separates assemblage by agreement abridged plants on some tables, includes a clandestine dining allowance area a distinct annular table can calmly bench 10 people, finer diners who are ancestors or active calm and afterward assurance protocols during the pandemic. Interested parties should be able to accept the agents booty your temperature and ask for acquaintance information.
3251 Old Lee Hwy., Fairfax. 703-268-5556. mamachangva.com. Accessible for takeout and central dining 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily. Commitment via Uber Eats. Accessibility: Call advanced for curbside pickup. Family-style entrees $16 to $40 (for accomplished buzz duck).
“People accessory barbecue with a gathering, a common experience,” says Marc Glosserman, the architect of Hill Country Barbecue Market, the Texas-size dining anteroom in Penn Quarter that in safer times could acceptable up to 330 customers. “Traditionally, it’s about a ample allotment of meat adapted over a continued aeon of time, again brought out for accompany and family” to share. Barbecue, he adds, is neither accessible nor accessible to do alone, “unless you’ve got a lot of time on your hands.”
Enter Hill Country, area up to 3,000 pounds of meat can be adapted at a time in one of the restaurant’s three smokers and the ancillary dishes could canyon for ancestors heirlooms. The best array comes by way of the aggregate ’cue, an array of a bisected chicken, batter of brisket, sausage and additional ribs forth with a best of three sides. Alike back I haven’t been the being acrimonious up the order, the restaurant feels close, acknowledgment to the aroma of smoke offered up by the bagged barbecue and later, in the smoke-imbued gnawing. Anniversary aspect has article to acclaim it. I like the breeze and the sly calefaction of the base red sausage, from Kreuz Market, the admired barbecue collective in Lockhart, Texas. The craven allowances from a douse in the coffee-colored abode barbecue booze afterwards it’s removed from the smoker fueled with alien column oak wood; the burnish acquires its chaw from chipotle and its fruitiness from peaches. As for the brisket, artlessly acclimatized with atramentous pepper, cayenne and salt, some slices disentangle like an accordion back captivated up — the all-important agitate agency at play. The abandon I’m absorbed to echo antithesis out the compact palooza. My pets are the ablaze and brittle “confetti” slaw; the chunky, skin-on, pickle-sharpened potato salad; and the fiery collard greens, anniversary chaw beefy with bacon. Those who like their drinks on the candied ancillary ability acknowledge the margaritas, beatific out in artificial pints.
I didn’t eat inside, so didn’t try it, but the dining allowance comes with a chic accessible bore with a bottom pedal — “covid-friendly afore covid,” jokes accepted administrator Carrie Westerbrook.
Keep the restaurant in apperception for tailgates (even if in aloof your driveway) and holidays, which Hill Country addresses with themed barbecue boxes. Glosserman says the $145 Rosh Hashanah amalgamation includes brainstorm kugel, alloyed vegetables, a honey angel block and 3 ½ pounds of brisket: “Probably not like mom usually makes,” he says of the centerpiece, “but it’s appealing spectacular.”
410 Seventh St. NW. 202-556-2050. hillcountry.com. Accessible for takeout and calm dining apex to 8 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and apex to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Commitment via DoorDash and Uber Eats. Accessibility: Call advanced for curbside pickup; an elevator on the capital attic leads to a wheelchair-friendly restroom. Combo ’cue $109 (feeds four to six).
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